Crochet Cable Cuff
Crochet this fun cuff that is like a little cable sweater for your wrist. Also makes a great gift with two sets of buttons to make the size adjustable. This small project is a perfect introduction to cable crochet to see if you want to take on a bigger project. The K+C Element Yarn is soft, comfortable and wears well—great for this accessory.
Introduction & Inspiration
Other than earrings, the jewelry I wear the most is a cuff bracelet. I love what it can bring to an outfit—a little color or in this case a little texture. And if you haven’t crocheted cables yet, this is the perfect small project to try out that yields an adorable accessory. Also makes a great gift with two sets of buttons to make the size adjustable. Please enjoy this free pattern of the crochet cable cuff.
Design
The cuff is worked in rows, turning work after each row. Turn work clockwise for consistency and to keep working yarn behind your work. First rows of single crochet include buttonholes, then cables are worked in front post double crochet alternating with rows of single crochet. After an initial row of cables is worked, all front post double crochet is worked in the front post double crochets two rows below. All cables are worked on the right side. The project is finished with rows of single crochet for attaching buttons.
Yarn
The K+C Element Yarn is soft, comfortable and wears well. I found it easy to work with and it has a nice sheen. Another bonus—one skein is enough for two cuffs—make one for yourself and one for a gift! If substituting yarn, look for a medium-weight cotton blend.
Size
Making something that is adjustable in size is one of the great appeals of this project. For women, a bracelet size that is between 7 to 7.5 inches is considered standard to sit between the wrist bone and the base of the hand. This is certainly not the case for me, my wrist is wider and a bracelet that is 8 inches fits nicely. This cuff would be considered a size medium and large.
For a small wrist or tween/teenager, end and fasten off after row 44 and sew buttons between rows 43-44, and rows 39-40 to make a size small and medium. Likewise, to make for a larger or male wrist, repeat row 4 four more times for 52 rows. Sew buttons between rows 51-52, and rows 47-48 to make a size large and extra large. For a truly custom fit, measure the circumference of the wrist for the cuff, add 1 inch to the wrist size and place buttons on the final single crochet rows accordingly.
Pattern
CROCHET | SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate
SIZE
Cuff measures approx 3 inches wide by 9 inches long; from buttonholes to the first set of buttons is 7 inches, from buttonholes to the second set of buttons is 8 inches
MATERIALS
- K+C Element Yarn (90% Cotton/10% Acrylic, 102 yds, weight: 4/Medium) – 1 skein Cream
- Size G (4.5 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- 4 – 12 mm buttons
- Small amount of thread to match
- Scissors
ABBREVIATIONS
approx = approximately
ch = ch
FPdc = front post double crochet
rep = repeat
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)
Pattern uses U.S. crochet terms.
GAUGE
20 rows on G (4.5 mm) hook = 4 inches (cuff is 3 inches wide at 14 sts)
NOTES
The cuff is worked in rows, turning work after each row. Turn work clockwise for consistency and to keep working yarn behind your work. First rows of single crochet include buttonholes, then cables are worked in front post double crochet alternating with rows of single crochet. After the initial row of cables is worked, all front post double crochet is worked in the front post double crochets 2 rows below. And finally rows of single crochet for attaching buttons. Row 1 is the foundation row and row 2 is the right side of the work. All cables are worked on right side.
SPECIAL STITCHES
FPdc = front post double crochet
Yarn over, insert hook from front to back then to the front again, going around post of next st one row below, draw up a loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times. (Skip st behind the FPdc in the working row.)
Crochet Chart
If you’re familiar with crochet symbols, use the chart below to get started. Otherwise, look over the chart then follow the instructions for row by row details.
INSTRUCTIONS
ch 15.
[Pattern note: Row 1 is foundation row]
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each ch across. (14)
Make buttonholes:
[Pattern note: Row 2 is RS row]
Row 2: turn, ch 1. sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts. ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts. (14)
Row 3: turn, ch 1. sc in each sc and ch across. (14)
Row 4: turn, ch 1. sc in each st across. (14)
Row 5: rep row 4
[Row 6 pattern note: foundation for cables]
Row 6: turn, ch 1. *sc in next 2 sts, FPdc around next st (2 rows down), sc in next 2 sts* FPdc in next 4 sts (2 rows down), rep between * one more time. (14)
Row 7: rep row 4
[Row 8 pattern note: cables angle out]
Row 8: turn, ch 1. sc in next 2 sts, FPdc in next st (2 rows down), sc in next st. sk next st, [FPdc in next st (2 rows down)] rep one more time. sc in next 2 sts. FPdc in previous st (2 rows down), FPdc in next st (2 rows down). sc in next st, FPdc in next st (2 rows down), sc in next 2 sts. (14)
Row 9: rep row 4
[Row 10 pattern note: cables straight up]
Row 10: turn, ch 1. sc in next 2 sts, FPdc in next st (2 rows down), sc in next st. [FPdc in next 2 sts (2 rows down), sc in next 2 sts, FPdc in next 2 sts (2 rows down)]. sc in next st, FPdc in next st (2 rows down), sc in next 2 sts. (14)
Row 11: rep row 4
[Row 12 pattern note: cables angle in]
Row 12: turn, ch 1. *sc in next 2 sts, FPdc in next st (2 rows down), sc in next 2 sts*. FPdc in previous st (2 rows down), FPdc in next st (2 rows down). sk next 2 sts, FPdc in next 2 sts (2 rows down). rep between * one more time. (14)
Row 13: rep row 4
[Row 14 pattern note: cables cross]
Row 14: turn, ch 1. *sc in next 2 sts, FPdc in next st (2 rows down), sc in next 2 sts*. sk 3 sts, [FPdc in next st (2 rows down)] rep one more time. FPdc back 2 sts (2 rows down), FPdc in next st (2 rows down). rep between * one more time. (14)
Row 15: rep row 4
Row 16: rep row 8
Row 17: rep row 4
Row 18: rep row 10
Row 19: rep row 4
Row 20: rep row 12
Row 21: rep row 4
Row 22: rep row 14
Row 23: rep row 4
Row 24: rep row 8
Row 25: rep row 4
Row 26: rep row 10
Row 27: rep row 4
Row 28: rep row 12
Row 29: rep row 4
Row 30: rep row 14
Row 31: rep row 4
Row 32: rep row 8
Row 33: rep row 4
Row 34: rep row 10
Row 35: rep row 4
Row 36: rep row 12
Row 37: rep row 4
Row 38: rep row 6
Row 39-48: rep row 4
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends. Sew buttons on RS 2 sts in from edge between rows 47-48, and rows 43-44.
[Pattern note: For a small wrist or tween/teenager, end and fasten off after row 44 and sew buttons between rows 43-44, and rows 39-40.]
CARE
Wash on gentle in cool water, lay flat to dry.
BLOCKING
Once finished the cuff was curling a bit on two corners, so I decided to wet block to make the project lay flat. There are many techniques to blocking a project, but I prefer wet blocking if the yarn is primarily cotton.
Soak the cuff in room temperature water for at least ten minutes. Do not wring, press the water out using a clean towel. Evenly spread cuff on a blocking mat (you can also use an old towel or yoga mat), making sure edges are straight and even, and pin in place with blocking pins or T-pins.
Let dry completely, I usually leave it pinned in place for a full day. When you remove the pins, the project should stay in place. If the project pulls or bounces, wet, pin, and let dry again.
I did splurge on a complete blocking kit that has everything needed—interlocking foam blocks, 3 different pin types, measuring tape—all in a handy carrying bag. The blocks have lines in one-inch increments for easy arranging and measuring, as well as a circle pattern. I have not come across a more complete kit! Of course, you can also use old towels or a yoga mat, just be sure to use pins that will not rust.
