photo of c2c crochet sup bruh pillow home decor
Decor,  For the Home

C2C Crochet Sup Bruh Pillow

Crochet this fun corner-to-corner (C2C) pillow for the young cool guy in your life or to create your own hipster vibe. It uses simple stitches and the Impeccable™ Yarn by Loops & Threads® is easy to work with and easy to care for. Sure to be noticed and a fun way to greet anyone entering the home! Please enjoy this free pattern.

Inspiration

Wanting to make a decorative pillow, I was drawn to something graphic and font-based—must be my graphic design background. The inspiration to use the phrase “sup bruh” came to me after moving my son into his first college house. (Sup bruh is slang for what’s up brother?) I thought it would be a fun accessory for his new living quarters, and of course, remind him of his mom.

Design

Working corner to corner – C2C – crochet is so rewarding because once you get the hang of it, you can work quickly. C2C uses simple stitches. And it’s so fun to watch the design take shape. Anything you can put on graph paper can be turned into an amazing project. If you’re new to this technique, don’t give up. Once you get the hang of it, I believe you will be so happy you stuck with it! This pillow is a great introductory project if you’re not yet ready to take on a blanket or a bigger project.

Yarn

The Impeccable™ Yarn by Loops & Threads® is easy to work with and easy to care for. Machine wash and dry. Win. Win. It comes in tons of colors so get creative or match to your decor.

Pillow

The final border is worked around the pillow, enclosing it with no opening, so make sure the pillow insert is machine washable. The pillow inserts used in this pattern arrived very flat. I fluffed up the insert and let it sit for a few days, then fluffed it up again before starting the project. I was very happy with the quality of the inserts.

I love how this pillow turned out and that you can pop it in the washer and dryer. I’m sketching out other graphic phrases, so stay tuned!


Pattern

CROCHET   |   SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate

SIZE
Approx 14 x 22 inches with border


MATERIALS


ABBREVIATIONS
approx = approximately
beg = begin(ning)(s)
C2C = corner to corner
ch = ch
ch-sp(s) = chain space(s)
cont = continue
dc = double crochet
rep = repeat
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
yd(s) = yard(s)

Pattern uses U.S. crochet terms.

GAUGE
6 squares x 6 rows = 4 inches


NOTES
For this project you will create 2 pillow sides in C2C crochet with 3 rounds of sc border. You will join the sides around the pillow insert using sc border and add an additional row of sc around. (Since the pillow insert will not be removable, choose one that is machine washable.)

C2C crochet is made by working squares in diagonal rows, increasing or decreasing the number of squares as you work. Working in squares allows you to create any design you lay out on graph paper. Begin in the bottom right corner and follow the graph row by row diagonally to the top left corner. 

Each square in the graph equals [ch 3 and 3 dc] working into the side of a square made in the previous row.

Pattern is provided as a visual in graph form, as well as written out by rows. Graph is read from the bottom right corner (beg with 1) up to the top left corner (ending with 47), diagonally. You may find it helpful to print out the graph and mark off each square as you go. The first square in the corner is row 1. You will work back and forth (down a row and then back up). Or you may follow the written pattern that lists the color changes row by row.

Basic instructions are provided for C2C crochet, if you’re new to the method you may want to check out tutorials on the technique (search Google and YouTube, etc. for C2C or corner to corner crochet) to get the idea.

In C2C crochet, each row always begins with an increase or decrease. Meaning you’re either adding a square with a chain 6 (increase) or slip stitching in the 3 double crochets of the previous square worked to keep your edge straight (decrease).

Increases:
Increases are worked at the beg of a row to add a square to the row. Sequence for working an increase is [ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch].

Decreases:
Decreases are also worked at the beg of a row to create a straight edge. Sequence for working a decrease is [sl st in 3 dc just worked] in previous row.

Changing colors:
Keep loose ends and float the yarn on the WS of your work. This pattern uses 2 colors of yarn referred to as Color A and Color B in the instructions.

To attach a new color, pull the new color yarn through as you make your sl st to join in turning ch-3 sp. Do not fasten off, float strands of yarn across WS of work – these won’t show when pillow sides are joined together around pillow form – picking up each color as needed. Pull yarn snug at joining sl st. However, take care to keep the floating strands of yarn not too loose (slightly taut to work) and not too tight (no puckering). Also take care to keep yarn untangled. If desired use a chip clip to keep Color B wrapped tight and clip to work when not in use. 

POINTER: If you are working an even-numbered row, you are working on the RS. Also, when working RS, square 1 is in lower right corner. Similarly, if you are working an odd-numbered row, you are working on the WS.

Turn work clockwise for consistency and to keep working yarn behind your work.

RS of work
WS of work

Graph Showing Rows, Squares & Color Changes

If you’re familiar with C2C crochet, use the graph or color changes listed by row below to get started. Otherwise, look over the graph then jump down to the instructions for row by row details.


Pillow front rows by color:

Work increases at beg of each row.

Row 1 (WS): A1

Row 2 (RS): A2

Row 3 (WS): A3

Row 4: (RS) A4

Row 5 (WS): A5

Row 6 (RS): A6

Row 7 (WS): A7

Row 8 (RS): A8

Row 9 (WS): A9

Row 10 (RS): A7, B1, A2

Row 11 (WS): A11

Row 12 (RS): A9, B1, A2

Row 13 (WS): A3, B1, A9

Row 14 (RS): A9, B1, A4

Row 15 (WS): A2, B1, A2, B1, A9

Row 16 (RS): A10, B1, A1, B1, A3

Row 17 (WS): A2, B1, A1, B2, A11

Row 18 (RS): A12, B1, A1, B2, A2

Row 19 (WS): A2, B1, A1, B1, A1, B1, A11 (18 squares worked, leaving last square unworked)

Work decreases at beg of each even-numbered row, cont increases at beg of each odd-numbered row.

Row 20 (RS): A10, B1, A1, B1, A2, B1, A2

Row 21 (WS): A3, B1, A4, B1, A9

Row 22 (RS): A13, B1, A4

Row 23 (WS): A5, B1, A12

Row 24 (RS): A13, B1, A4

Row 25 (WS): A2, B1, A2, B1, A1, B1, A2, B1, A7

Row 26 (RS): A6, B2, A1, B1, A2, B1, A1, B1, A3

Row 27 (WS): A2, B1, A1, B2, A3, B2, A1, B1, A5

Row 28 (RS): A4, B1, A2, B1, A4, B1, A1, B2, A2

Row 29 (WS): A2, B1, A1, B1, A1, B1, A4, B1, A1, B1, A4

Row 30 (RS): A4, B2, A1, B1, A4, B1, A2, B1, A2

Work decreases at beg of each row.

Row 31 (WS): A2, B1, A1, B1, A4, B2, A1, B1, A4

Row 32 (RS): A5, B1, A1, B1, A4, B2, A2

Row 33 (WS): A2, B1, A4, B1, A2, B1, A4

Row 34 (RS): A6, B1, A4, B1, A2

Row 35 (WS): A2, B1, A2, B1, A1, B1, A5

Row 36 (RS): A4, B1, A1, B2, A1, B1, A2

Row 37 (WS): A3, B1, A1, B1, A5

Row 38 (RS): A5, B1, A1, B1, A2

Row 39 (WS): A3, B1, A1, B1, A3

Row 40 (RS): A3, B1, A1, B1, A2

Row 41 (WS): A2, B2, A3

Row 42 (RS): A3, B1, A2

Row 43 (WS): A5

Row 44 (RS): A4

Row 45 (WS): A3

Row 46 (RS): A2

Row 47 (WS): A1

Do not fasten off, turn and work border. Jump to row 48 below.


Beginning Squares & Rows

PHOTO 1 – dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 chs (first square and row 1)
PHOTO 2 – turn and ch 6
PHOTO 3 – dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch (second square)
PHOTO 4 – sl st in turning ch-3 sp from previous row to join, ch 3
PHOTO 5 – 3 dc in same ch-3 sp (third square and row 2)
PHOTO 6 – 4 rows worked

Instructions


Make pillow front:

With Color A, ch 6

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 chs – first square worked – turn. 

Increases are worked at beg of each row.

Row 2: ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch. sl st in turning ch-3 sp from previous row to join, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp, turn. 

Row 3: ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch. [sl st in turning ch-3 sp from previous row to join, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp] rep across, turn.

Rows 4-18: rep row 3 making color changes according to graph or written instructions above.

Row 19: making color changes according to graph or written instructions above – ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch. [sl st in turning ch-3 sp from previous row to join, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp] rep across to last square from previous row, sl st into turning ch-3 sp, turn. (18 squares worked, leaving last square unworked). [photos]

Decreases are worked at beg of each even-numbered row, cont increases at beg of each odd-numbered row. This creates a straight edge along top of work.

Row 20: making color changes according to graph or written instructions above – sl st in 3 dc just worked, [sl st in turning ch-3 sp from previous row to join, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp] rep across, turn.

Rows 21: making color changes according to graph or written instructions above – ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch. [sl st in turning ch-3 sp from previous row to join, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp] rep across to last square from previous row (to the straight edge), sl st into turning ch-3 sp, turn.

Rows 22-30: rep rows 20-21 making color changes according to graph or written instructions above.

Decreases are worked at beg of each row. This creates a straight edge along side of work.

Row 31: making color changes according to graph or written instructions above – sl st in 3 dc just worked, [sl st in turning ch-3 sp from previous row to join, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp] rep across, sl st in turning ch-3 sp from previous row to join, turn.

Rows 32-47: rep row 31 making color changes according to graph or written instructions above.

Do not fasten off, turn.

Work border:
Row 48: ch 1, sc around evenly working 3 sc across each square and 3 sc in corners. sl st to first st to join.

Row 49: ch 1, sc in each st around. sl st to first sc to join.

Row 50: rep row 49.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Make pillow back:
Repeat above sequence using only Color A (ignore color changes).

Pillow sides measure approx 13 x 21 inches.


Create a Joining Border

Arrange pillow sides with WS against pillow insert, taking care to line up sts
join both sides with sl st anywhere along bottom edge
sc in each st around working through both sides

Make border that joins sides together around pillow insert:
Create a sc border that joins front and back sides of pillow – working through all 4 loops.

Arrange pillow sides with WS against pillow insert, taking care to line up sts. Connect sides in the corners with stitch markers or safety pins. Anywhere on bottom edge of pillow, with Color B, insert hook through both sides of pillow and join with sl st, making sure sts are lined up on sides. 

Row 1: ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around working through both sides, and working 3 sc in each corner. join with sl st to first st. 

Row 2: ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around working 3 sc in each corner. join with sl st to first sc.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

PATTERN NOTES: When working first row of sc border on sides, 3 sc evenly across each square, IN ADDITION, work 3 sc in each corner. (This might initially feel crowded, next row smooths it out.)

When lining up sides, 56 sts between corner sts on left and right sides.


CARE
Machine washable, gentle cycle, low heat or lay flat to dry.

POINTER: Consider washing in a zip-up pillowcase or using a laundry bag for delicates like this large mesh one available on Amazon. I have had mine for several years and get a lot of use out of it: sweaters, bras, of course – pillows – and more.

Relax in style!